More Than A Castle: Palaces, Monasteries, and a Village.

In early November 2022, I was attending a 3-day event in Sparta, Greece. Just a small handful of miles west of there, I booked a suite at a healing and wellness retreat nestled at the base of a mountain, out of which a tall and rich green forest served as backdrop. The village is called Mystras. Each day, as I came and went from my lodgings, I could crane my gaze skyward and see the remnants of an ancient castle at the very top of a great looming mountain.

I saved my exploration of Mystras Castle for the last morning of stay. Check out was at 11:00 am, so I got up early and had the front desk call a cab to drive me to the top. The concierge assured me that once I arrived at the top, I’d be able to foot it all the way down the mountain and back to the resort. Needless to say, I was feeling pretty confident that 3 hours was enough time to see the small castle way up there and make it back down.

I arrived at the castle at 8 in the morning. I paid €6 to enter, and so my adventure began. It’s important to note that the event I was attending just down the road was attended by thousands of people from various parts of the world, and yet here I stood, just me and my traveling companion, all alone inside of this absolute monument to a time gone by.

I spent a lot of time at the top, in the surprisingly well preserved remains of the castle, mostly because I didn’t realize that there was an entire old city below it to explore, but also because I am a complete sucker for a view, and the view from up there was unlike anything I’d ever seen before. I knew that near where I had entered—down the stone pathways below the castle—was some sort of a ruin collection of palaces and churches. Once I started on this track, everything opened wide. I hadn’t realized how expansive this journey down the mountain would be.

I stopped into the church of Agia Sofia, an arching space with domed insets and ancient color art. I was moved by the place and ready to see more. Alas, the check-out time at the retreat was drawing close. I stopped sparingly on the way down the mountain, briefly to marvel, take a picture, read a sign, or to briefly explore some stone crevice. I was very much wishing that I had the entire day to devote to this sprawling space.

The Mystras Castle and all surrounding sites is a historical descent into the city below it. I was fascinated that I was walking through these pathways that so clearly served as the pathway past ruins that were once homes, churches, and palaces, all leading up to and down from the fortress above. I had never heard of this place before, so all I’ definitely did a bit of reading after my visit.

Apparently this old city was an intellectual, religious, artistic place in the world, active with the Renaissance energetics. It’s crazy to recall that I was rushing past churches that were.probably some of the first of its kind. So much there represents the human urge to advance, to grow out of the darkness and into the light of a new creation. To learn, and experiment, and to not be held back in the pursuit of knowledge or beauty or emotional freedom. Renaissance birthed the particular religion that has defined my life, protestant Christianity.

Of course, the Renaissance was a phase for this city, as it was on a greater scale. The city of Mystras was begun in the 14th. century and was eventually abandoned in the 19th century—1832 to be exact. It blows my mind that time has moved on less than 200 years, just.a brief moment in the scope of all things.

While I was in Greece, I definitely visited the popular archeological sites in Athens, all well-worth it. I devoted two mornings in a row to the Acropolis and other surrounding archeological sites. I’m grateful for the experiences there, it was awe-inspiring and beautiful. I see why it attracts so many people, and in such large numbers.

But that castle at the top of the mountain with its winding ancient stone streets was by far my favorite part of touristing in Greece. When I return to Greece, I’ll be sure to commit a full day to the old city of Mystras. For now, I have this curated collection of photographs to commemorate my few short hours there. In creating this collection, I have tried to keep the photographs in the order that they were journeyed into existence. So we start at the castle on the mountain top, where I spent the most time. And then the swift descent.

I hope you enjoy the journey.